Galapagos Islands and recollections 8 years on

I joined a 10 day Group Trip with Intrepid, travelling between islands by motor boat whilst staying on land for the nights.

The islands lie about 1000km from Ecuador with 13 large-ish islands and many islets over 50,000km2 of ocean. They were formed by underwater volcanoes erupting and rising above the ocean due to on-going tectonic plate activity, so the oldest islands are 3 million years old with the youngest such as Isabela just 750,000 years. The unique flora and fauna arrived on the wind or floated across the ocean and evolved in the absence of many, recent introduced predators such as goats, rats and dogs.

Took about 2 hours flying from Quito with fantastic views of the Andean Mountains of volcanoes and snow as well as the patchwork of cultivated lands. Our first and last days were on Isla San Cristobal, staying in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno which although the provincial capital was far less touristy than Santa Cruz island with an easy going ambience of some hotels, cafes, shops and Sealions just across the road lying on the beaches, benches or pavement.

We walked to Cerro de Tijeretas or Frigate-bird Hill visitor centre and took a 2km trail through the dark basalt lava landscape to the Charles Darwin monument and a lovely aquamarine bay. This trail and jeep – walking – bike trips on other days to higher ground gave an appreciation of some of the 6 different vegetation zones from shore to the higher cloud forest. By the coast were mangroves and saltbush, then the arid zone with grey, dead looking wind stunted trees such as palo santo, palo verde, many cactus species including prickly pear and introduced guava. This zone was in sharp contrast to the green trees higher on the hills.

Near San Cristobal we had 2 snorkel trips, starting off in sheltered waters at Isla de Lobos and then further out to sea at Kicker Rock, a sheer walled volcanic tuff cone eroded in half. Here the waters were choppier and murkier so I didn´t see much but did get stung a bit by little jellyfish. During the week we went snorkelling at other sites and overall, I went swimming with fantastically graceful Sealions blowing bubbles and one nibbled a lady´s flippers!´plunge diving birds such as Boobies, lots of various multi coloured fishes, Sea Cucumbers, Sting rays and White tipped or Galapagos sharks lying on the sea bed.

We had about 11 hours in total on the 24 foot motor boat between islands. The 2nd day for our first trip we had 2.5 hours bouncing around the sea at about 20 knots and saw a whale ´back´and the blowing spout of water —wow!   On arrival by a rocky steep islet we saw some nesting Magnificent and Great Frigate birds with their red skin throat balloons, Masked and Blue-footed Boobies with fabulous bright blue feet!, Swallow tailed gulls (only nocturnal gull in the world) hugging the bare rock or on partly vegetated lava.

Then a short ride to Floreana island which has an interesting history of a marooned Irishman who grew vegetables for 2 years and traded rum with passing ships, remained drunk throughout, then stole a ship´s boat and went to the mainland with 5 slaves none of whom arrived except the Irish guy. Then it became a penal colony followed by some Germans including a baronesss with 3 lovers and the whole lot except for one lady who lived to 95, fell out, died or disappeared.

We had 3 nights on Isabela in the small port of Puerto Villamil which had a laid back, friendly feel. The hotels for the Trip were good although the hot showers were pot luck but comfortable and clean. Had breakfasts in local cafes and lunch either on board the boat or as with dinner, in a restuarant. Fruit juices, coffee, breads, scrambled egg, corn dough cooked in plantain leaves, lots of rice, chicken and some vegetables, soups and chocolate cake.

Isabela comprises of a chain of 5 fairly young and intermittently active volcanoes. We took a 10 mile hike in hot, blue sky weather to Volcan Santo Tomas which has a 10km wide caldera of green vegetated banks sharply delineated with the blackish, bare lava bottom. Saw one active fumarole and a fantastic hike across bare lava sub crater landscape to Volcan Chico with reds, browns, blacks, lava tubes, sharp rocky pinnacles and the two types of lava depending on how quickly it cooled. There were great views of the coastal plains and saw a Galapagos Hawk gliding over the caldera edge. I remember this hawk well as it sailed the thermals in a stark but vivid landscape.

We went by open sided bus – truck to the Muro de las Lagrimas or Wall of Tears which is about 5-6 m high and 3m wide built of lava rocks by convicts. The brutality of the penal colonies was savage and inmates finally rioted about mid 20th C and they were closed. From discovery by the Bishop of Panama in 1535 until the 20th C the islands were ravaged by buccaneers, sealers, whalers and convicts. Tens if not hundreds of thousands of Galapagos Tortoises etc were taken for fresh meat on ships as they can live for about a year. The toll continued in to the 1990´s due to conflicts between locals fearful of their livelihoods and conservationists, but it seems from chatting with our local guide whose dad is a fisherman, that many are adapting to the ´newer´eco tourism livelihood of restricted fishing and becoming tour boat operators.

We visited ranches – breeding centres for Tortoises which were magnificent and awe inspiring as one contemplated at 200kg or so they were 150 years or more old…wow! There were 14 sub species endemic to an island or part of an island such as a volcano but 3 are now extinct and Lonesome George from Isla Pinta is the last survivor. The Charles Darwin Foundation and National Park are successfully breeding and releasing juveniles back to the wild combined with efforts to improve the natural habitat. The sub species have different adaptations to a habitat such as a longer neck to reach taller vegetation. One surreal sight was watching 3 nuns pose for photos next to these resting beasts. Also saw the breeding pens for the 2 species of Land Iguanas and some of the Finches with different size – shape bills. I recall one tortoise with a slumped head-neck position as if it was all too much trouble – age?!

Fringing the sheltered bay of PV were several rocky islets and tourists could land on one called Tintoreras. I recall along the trail seeing lots of Marine Iguanas which feed off seaweeds, with their scaly darkish skin, spine crest and occasional snorts to puff out salt spray basking on the bare, warm rocks to regulate body temperature. There were brightly coloured scuttling Sally Lightfoot Crabs and in sheltered waters resting White Tipped or Galapagos Sharks and saw a few Galapagos Penguins. I had another snorkel trip – but not where the sharks lie up.

Leaving Isabela for Santa Cruz island was entertaining as the boat crew seemingly had no idea we were leaving at 0730, so after getting out of bed for 0630 breakfast we get our bags checked by officials again to ensure one is not taking fruit, seeds etc between islands and hang around for 30 mins or so as the crew swop batteries since there was more engine trouble. This happened on the 1st day when we sort of stalled twice out at sea whilst they used spanners, a carving knife and duct tape to fix terminals.  We eventually departed but then run aground 3 times on the sand banks and rocks as it was low tide in the bay. They got us off onto a small wooden boat or plancha to lighten the load and 2 crew jumped over board to stand knee high on a rock to try and push the boat off, followed by a tow from another boat as we waited tied up to a raft with resting Sea lions, Brown Pelicans and Boobies. I well recall with bemusement 8 years on these antics – they provided free Carry On Boating cameos.

The boat trips often involved bouncing about through swells and white horses. I liked travelling on the upper ´deck´behind the ´driver´as although the boat moved more from being a bit higher, I needed more air slightly further away from diesel fumes and people being sick. I was pleased not to feel unwell or scared stiff as I strongly believe in calm sunny waters if in a boat within swimming distance of land!

On one day, after leaving port, the captain went below to sleep for the next 2 hours as he seemed to be feeling sick and got one of the 20 year old lads to take the helm who promptly put it into full revs and off we went with frequent seas coming in through his open plastic window so his sun glasses were wet as was his shirt and he was shivering. He didn´t seem too sure where he was heading as he was looking at the horizon a lot to work out distant shapes of islands and that day we had no GPS. The captain couldn´t get out of the forward cabin until a crew member got WD 40 and a spanner to whack open the door.

The last night was on San Cristobal and some of us stayed in a local bar -club with our guide. Had a fab time being taught by a Galapogean bloke how to do the Merengue dance with probably some Salsa thrown in. They are natural movers in Central and Latin America, certainly compared to my clunky moves and it was so tiring – I was surprised as I thought I was reasonably fit but following subsequent dance classes back in the UK now realise different muscle groups, stamina as well as skill in conserving energy is needed.